Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 1990 750ml

The 1990 Barolo (magnum) is fat, opulent and fuller in body than the 1989, showing exceptional richness and length. The warmth of the vintage is evident in ripe, almost candied tones in the fruit that recall Pinot Noir. There is wonderful integrity in the glass, as autumn leaves, tobacco and licorice gradually emerge to round out this beautiful Barolo. This, too, combines elements of etherealness and weight in a style that is uniquely Mascarellian. The firm tannins should allow the 1990 to continue to keep nicely for many years, although at some point the structural elements will likely dominate in the wine's balance. Today, the 1990 Barolo is magnificent. Ideally the wine is best opened several hours in advance. I tasted the same bottle roughly 12 hours apart on the same day, and it had improved dramatically with air.