Among Gaja's three single vineyard Barbarescos, the most compelling is the Sori San Lorenzo. The 1990 is a massive wine with a staggering yet unevolved nose of herbs, hickory, smoked meats, cedar, and red and black fruits. Spectacularly concentrated, with layers of flavor, this dense, blockbuster wine should be cellared for 4-6 years and drunk through the first two or more decades of the next century.